Where We Walked: Llanwrst – Melin Y Coed – a Five Mile Circular Walk #Walks #Photographs #history #alittlehumour #MondayBlogs @Llanwrst @North Wales

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Our first walk: an easy five mile circular walk. We thought…

We followed a footpath alongside a stream and through a field covered in glorious wildflowers, including one that we later discovered was called the Deptford pink which is nationally rare. I took a photo of the flower: it had a long and deep pink petals with pale spots and ragged edges. Unfortunately, later (not having the expertise of the photgrapher), I saw that I’d had my mobile phone turned the wrong way round and had an image of a red, sweaty face … mine (well it was a hot day).

So here is a photo of the Deptford pink courtesy of The Species Recovery Trust. Apparently the plant has been used in traditional medicine for various purposes, such as treating digestive ailments and as a diuretic.

This area is called Coed y Felin and includeds an ancient oak/ash woodland planted with sycamore, beech and sweet chestnut.

Pathways criss-cross this ancient woodland site, leaving clues to its long-held links with the local population. Its timber has been used to support local mining villages for centuries. But Llanrwst has also long been known as a market town with a history of a whole range of industries over the centuries, one of which is a thriving woollen industry. Apparently it’s historically recorded that in the Middle Ages the price for wool at Llanrwst market set the price for wool throughout England and Wales in that period.The photographs below are the ruins of a woollen mill, Felin Uchaf.

The directions told us to zig zag up a steep lane.

And then continue for about one and a half mile along a lane. Or rather, up a very steep lane!

And this is where the five mile circular walk became … a little longer. The signs disappeared. And there were four turn-offs to choose from. So, three times, we wandered up this lane, (which I swear was at least half a mile long from bottom to top) and then down and then up again.

Until I stopped for breath and the photographer declared joyfully, ‘There’s a lovely view from up here.’

After that I believe the person who wrote the directions became bored, jotted down a few notes about going through fields, and went home. And we more or less followed our noses. Or, should I say, because anyone who knows me knows I have no sense of direction whatsoever, I followed the photographer (who, true to form, was really only looking for “great shots”)

We meandered through fields along vague paths, which I was sure were sheep trails … see the evidence below?

And note … a stile! After last year’s walks in the Yorkshire Dales here and here, the photographer promised no stiles this time. And yet, on the very first walk – a stile.

It was quite a quiet walk back to the start after that…

PS: The following is an interesting article about Y Pont Fawr – the bridge in Llanrwst that, on our way to the cottage we were staying at, we tried to cross three times before being successful. Because of the high crown of the bridge it’s impossible to see if there’s another vehicle coming the opposite way … until it’s almost too late.

As this piece says further down: “The bridge is too narrow for vehicles to pass on it, and its hump limits forward visibility. This explains the local nickname Pont y Rhegi – “bridge of swearing”.” I’m not saying who added to this nickname, but the photographer refused my request to stop to take a photograph of the bridge.

Pont Fawr, Llanrwst

A ford crossed the river Conwy in this vicinity long before it was bridged. The original bridge was declared unsafe in 1626 and preparations began for its replacement, funded by the people of Caernarfonshire (west of the river) and Denbighshire (east of the river). In 1634 four Lancashire stonemasons were contracted to build the new bridge. The year 1636 and the royal coat of arms are shown on a plaque on the upstream side of the bridge, which is known as Pont Fawr (“large bridge”).llanrwst_pont_fawr_watercolour

The workmen who built the bridge inserted the keystones for the central arch upside down. This was not discovered until the opening day, when the arch collapsed! The central arch rises to c.18 metres above the water.

The renowned architect Inigo Jones was professionally associated with the wealthy Wynn family of Llanrwst, and legend has it that he designed Pont Fawr. The pictures of the bridge and Inigo Jones (courtesy of The National Library Wales) were used to illustrate Thomas Pennant’s books about his travels in Wales in the 1770s.

llanrwst_inigo_jones

Pennant wrote that two of the arches were extremely beautiful, marking “the hand of the architect”, but the third was inferior, having been rebuilt in 1703. Inigo had changed Ynyr, his real Christian name, to Inigo or Ignatius when he went to Italy, according to Pennant.

The bridge features full-height cutwaters (stonework shaped like a ship’s bow). The river is the outlet for rainwater and meltwater from across a large area of Snowdonia including Dyffryn Mymbyr (around Capel Curig), one of the wettest places in Britain. Since the western arch collapsed in 1702 and was rebuilt, the bridge has stood the test of countless floods and the advent of motorised lorries and buses.

The bridge is too narrow for vehicles to pass on it, and its hump limits forward visibility. This explains the local nickname Pont y Rhegi – “bridge of swearing”.

llanrwst_pont_fawr_drawing

William Peers may have uttered an expletive on a dark night in 1907 when the traction engine he was driving crashed through the wall at the Llanrwst end of the bridge. After crossing the river, he had misjudged the position of the main road. The stoker and two navvies (engaged in building Dolgarrog aluminium works) jumped clear. Mr Peers fell about three metres onto the riverbank. The engine was said to have made a complete rotation in mid air before hitting the riverbed about six metres below the road.

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47 thoughts on “Where We Walked: Llanwrst – Melin Y Coed – a Five Mile Circular Walk #Walks #Photographs #history #alittlehumour #MondayBlogs @Llanwrst @North Wales”

    • Hi, Noelle, I always think it’s more than the amount of miles the directions says, just to fool us! We don’t help ourselves anyway, because we almost always get lost when wayfairer signs disappear – which happens a lot. But it’s always an adventure. 😊Thank you so much for reading and commenting; it’s appreciated. x

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  7. The walk looks lusciously green and definitely steep in parts! Trust you to find a stile for your first one. The photos are wonderful, although the one I really, really want to see now is the accidental one of your face. Well done! The Swearing Bridge is fabulous and I love the fact that they put the keystones in upseide down. 🤣xx

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    • Trish, I deleted that photo – I wasn’t being seen as the one struggling up that ****** hill!! Never mind the stile. And I totally believe that the keystones being put in upside down and collapsing caused it to be called the ‘Swearing Bridge ‘ at first – whatever they say. Well I did, until I heard the photographer having to reverse three times – though I have to say, he is better as reversing than I would be. lol x

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    • Thank you for coming along with us, Sally. We always go off piste. David says it’s an adventure. I’m not always sure of that. LOL. The bridge was a little nerve-wracking, as were all the single track roads and twists and turns. I was just glad I wasn’t driving, so I admire you learning to drive in such places. Finding such as the flower is always a plus – there’s such a lot to learn about all the time. xx

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  11. Pingback: Smorgasbord Blogger Weekly – June 15th 2024 – #Ireland Darlene Foster, #Wales Judith Barrow, #Fashionshow Robbie Cheadle, #Newbaby Pete Springer, #Father’sday Edward Ortiz, #Queensland Miriam Blaker | Smorgasbord Blog Magazine

  12. I’m always worried that circular walks won’t be. My late husband thought we should never retrace our steps and always work our way round, luckily he had a good sense of direction. Though once we followed a footpath in the New Forrest that turned out to be a hoofpath and led to a lot of mud where the ponies went to drink out of the stream.

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    • It’s always an adventure, Janet. Having absolutely no sense of direction I always rely on husband, David, Though I know our walks always take longer because of the many stops to take photos. Mind you, it does mean I get my breath back!!

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    • Thank you, Miriam. They are almost always longer walks than first thought (though sometimes it’s because we get lost! )Then it really is a case of following our noses. lol Thank you for reading. And I’ll pass your comment about the photos on to Husband – he’ll be chuffed.😊

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    • It’s surprising what glorious places we find on these walks, Michael. And sometimes we go miles without seeing anyone – it’s all good for the soul. Thank you for reading and commenting.😊

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