After weeks of what seems to have been constant rain, we embarked on a couple of days away, determined to walk, whatever the weather. We headed for Mid Wales.
We were lucky: the clouds parted, the rain stopped, the sun came out. We took a trip to Elan Valley and walked around Garreg Ddu to Pen y Garreg.
We’ve been a few times in the past, the last being in 2023 when there was a drought declared. Below is the road bridge/ wall between Garreg Ddu and Caban Coch. On the left 2023, on the right this time, in November.
Though there were less daylight hours this time to walk we still were able to see some of the differences in the water levels in the reservoirs between our visits in 2023 to this November.
In 2023 the water was so low we could see the outlines of the houses, the roads and the church that were compulsory purchased in 1892 in order to dam the Elan and Claerwen rivers within the Elan Valley and supply water to Birmingham. This was because of the rapid growth of that industrial city, and the numerous outbreaks of disease that prompted Birmingham City Council to petition the British government to pass the Birmingham Corporation Water Act in 1892, allowing the corporation to acquire the land.
Building work began in 1883. There are six impressive dams altogether. Four follow the Elan River – Craig Goch, Pen y Garreg, Garreg Ddu, and Caban Coch and two are on the river Claerwen – the Claerwen dam and the unfinished Dol y Mynach dam.
The History of Elan Valley:
In 1893 one hundred people in Elan Valley had to move to allow the work to begin, but only landowners received compensation payments. Many buildings were demolished: three manor houses, eighteen farms, a school and a church – the latter being replaced by the corporation and renamed Nantgwyllt Church. Over the next three years a railway line was constructed to transport the workers and thousands of tonnes of building material each day.
Thousands of men and their families lived in wooden huts in the the purpose-built Elan Village, where, eventually a library, a public hall, a shop, and a canteen were built. There was also a hospital, used for injuries and as an isolation hospital. There was even street lighting which was powered by hydroelectric generators. New workers were initially expected to spend the first overnight in a lodging house to be deloused and examined for infectious diseases. Only then were they allowed across the river to the village. Single men lived in groups of eight in a terrace house shared with a man and his wife. A guard was employed to check for illegal importation of liquor and unauthorised visitors. There was a bath house which the men could use up to three times a week but the women only once. And the pub was for the men only. A school was provided for those under elevens, after this the children were expected to work.
The dams were built in two phases. The first phase, which cost six million pounds and employed fifty thousand was opened on the twenty-first of July 1904 by King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. The building of the second phase dams was delayed due to the two World Wars and work only started in 1946. Because of engineering advancements just one large dam was built instead of the three smaller ones originally planned for. This was the Claerwen. This dam was completed in 1952 and opened by Queen Elizabeth II on the twenty-third of October.
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Judith Barrow 
That was interesting. I vaguely knew dams were built in Wales to supply England. Fantastic engineering, but a sad story.
I guess, at the time, it was judged to be necessary, but such upheaval to all those lives caused bitter resentment. And yet, nowadays, it’s an area that brings in many visitors and much needed revenue to the area. A contrast over time that must still cause such debate. Thanks for reading and commenting – it’s appreciated.
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The same thing happened with dam projects in the US.
I wonder how many other lost stories there are worldwide, Liz. So many communities dispersed. Thank you for reading and commenting.
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what a great bit of history here – and so interesting to see a place after the rain and compare it to the time of drought. Also, this line had me: “the clouds parted, the rain stopped, the sun came out…” ahhhh
Thank you so much for being here to read about the history here, it’s much appreaciated. And yes, to watch the clouds part was truly an experience.
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What a difference a couple of years has made. They built a dam where we used to have our vacation home – it flooded a lot of valleys and put people out of their homes.
It has, Noelle. The loss of a home, in whatever capacity, can never be forgotten. Whenever we walk around Elan Valley I think of that. Thank you for reading and commenting. x
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Beautiful photos, Judith – when it was so grey and dreary here! The walks look wonderful and I found the information about the dam fascinating and distressing in equal measure. It’s not the only time the Welsh have had their valleys flooded for water to be supplied to England and it must have created huge distress and resentment. xx
This was something that we thought on the walk in 2023, Alex. The poignancy of seeing the outlines of houses and the church – the thought of so many lives displaced. And now the pleasure the reservoirs and pathways bring to so many visiters. I do wonder about the balance of that. Thank you for reading and commenting. xxxx
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Sounds like a fab time. Wonderful photos, thanks. We visited Elan many years ago. An amazing place. Love Wales. We used to visit often and really enjoyed our times in Snowdonia and the Gower. Thanks for this. Good luck with your books. Stay well. xx
Thank you so much for being here, Jane. Your comments are appreciated. We moved to Wales forty-six years ago and it was the best thing we did: a lovely place to bring up children, wonderful scenary, and a great place to find my writer’s head again. xx
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Stunning Judith… so sad though that so many were displaced although it does sound like they attempted to provide them with basic facilities. Progress sometimes sweeps people away. I never made it down that far from Dolgellau.. about 50 miles I think. But if we make it across again for an extended period definitely a place to visit.. thanks for sharing and wonderful photography. ♥
Thank you for reading this, Sally. I’ve been glad we had this walk last week so I can see more of David’s photographs whilst I lie here feeling sorry for myself with the flu. We’ve known about the history of Elan Valley for years and it always brings a poignant sadness ans well as an appreciation of how nature reclaims the land. It is indeed a wonderful area to visit – maybe, one day, we’ll meet up to explore more of the reservoirs together. . 💜💜
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Fascinating history, and such a delightful walk.
Thank you for reading and commenting, Joy. So glad you enjoyed being alongside us.
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Nice pictures.
Thank you so much, Andrew.
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